Friday 6th March, London Heathrow

I am working for Discover Adventure this week with Lucinda and Cookie (trip doctor) on a 100km trek through the Sahara desert in Morroco. We are meeting our group of 18 clients at the airport for our flight to Casablanca and onwards to Ouarzazate. After arrival in Ouarzazte we transferred to our hotel where we would spent our first night in country.

1st March, Winter Skills, Cairngorms

We were out on Day 2 of our winter skills course on Cairngorm. The weather had improved slightly overnight and a light covering of fresh snow had fallen. Our route onto the plateau today was across the Fiaciall Ridge. A fine scrambly ridge with great views into the coires on either side and a great opportunity for the group to develop their winter skills.

There were some very good snow conditions on the ridge and we soon reached the plateau without any problems. There were many teams out climbing in both corries today. After we arrived on the plateau we decided to walk over to Ben Macdui to practice our navigating.

As we approached the summit the weather closed in and visibility became poor. This was great as the group learned how weather conditions can change very quickly in this area and the need to be able to navigate efficiently and effectively.

After a short break for summit pictures Jo was given the task of navigating us back off the mountain and into Coire an Lochain. In the coire we look at a number of techniques for descending and moving about on the steep snow slopes of the headwall. Before returning to the car park.

Matt was staying on an extra night in Aviemore and he was going to try his first night in a bothy at Ryvoan, a short walk from Glen More lodge

28th Feb, Winter Skills Course, Aviemore

Today I am working in the Cairngorm's on a winter skills course with Jo, Matt and Tony. The weather was better than forecast with the occasional appearance of sun. The temperatures were unseasonally warm and it was very hot on the walk in. There was still enough snow on the headwall of Coire Cas to enable us to practice the basic winter skills although it would have been better if the snow had been slightly harder for cramponing.

After practicing all of the basic movement skills we headed up to the spot height of 1141m before making our way over Cairngorm to Ciste Mhearad. We found very little snow on the summit of Cairngorm but lots of good ice to use our crampons on. We dug an emergency shelter and had lunch in a large snow hole we found in the Coire. Before navigating our way back down to the car park.

22nd Feb, No 4 Gully Ben Nevis

Today we were on Ben Nevis on day 2 of the course taking our group up to No 4 gully for their first winter mountaineering day. Conditions were better today with less wind and freezing conditions overnight consolidating the snowpack.

The walk in to the CIC hut was free of any snow and it wasn't till we approached the small lochans in Coire na Ciste that we needed to put on our crampons.

There were lots of other teams about today but surprisingly we had No 4 Gully to ourselves. We found some signs of old avalanche debris but the snowpack at present appeared very well consolidated and a low risk of avalanche.

Our group made good progress on the route and we soon reached the top of the gully.

Conditions on top were good with low wind speeds although the visibility was poor. We navigated carefully across the plateau using compass and pacing. It was also a good opportunity to orientate our group with the various gullies on the Ben before making our way across to the summit cairn.

The descent route was down the ridge towards the CMD arete and the abseil posts. We descended from here down into Coire Leis before walking down to the CIC hut and the path back to the cars.

21st Feb, Winter Mountaineering Aonach Mor

Today I am working for Adventure Peaks on their two day winter Mountaineering Course along with Chris Walker.

The weather was warmer and wetter than than forecast and the snow pack was thawing quickly. Perhaps wellies instead of boots would be required.

We decided to take our group onto the Nid Ridge area of Aonach Mor today to teach them the basic snow and rope skills they would require for winter mountaineering on day 2.




The group learned how to rope up to ascend steep slopes using various forms of snow belays.




Digging a large snow bollard which we will use to set up a retrievable absail to descend the slope.





Preparing a bucket seat belay reiforced with a buried axe

We also looked at various forms of snow shelters. Yorkshire crawling out of one of the shovel ups that someone had previously constructed. This shelter was big enough for 4 people.

The wind strength appeared to have increased during the day but fortunately for us the Gondala was still running and we were able to get a lift back into the valley.

15th Feb, Winter Climbing, Crinkle Crags and Bowfell

Today I am in the Langdale valley and planning to climb the gullies and butresses on Crinkle Crags. The forecast thaw has arrived with spring like temperatures in the valley of around 8 degrees C.





The camera was carefully packed last night to avoid a repeat of yesterday. However low cloud was giving poor visibility on the tops as we set off up Oxendale Dale towards Crinkle Gill and I wasn't very hopeful of getting any good pictures today.











As we gained height the cloud began to break up and visibility improved. The snowpack was starting to thaw and I dug a few hasty pits to check for stability before we moved onto the steeper ground.





As we climbed we got got views back down the valley and over to Pike O Blisco which was enjoying some sun.


Despite being half term the Lakes seemed very quite and I saw very few people on the hill for for whole day.









After climbing on the buttresses we headed up to the summit of Crinkle Crags and walked round to the Bad Step to check conditions. It was disappointing to find it was only wet rock, with little or no snow remaining on most of the route.

































The walk across the Crinkles was pleasant with a few deep snow fields to cross. The thaw had softened the snow pack and it was possible to walk over here without the need for crampons today.

The route onto Bowfell was in sun and it looked Alpine like with clear blue skies above. After a quick break at the top we desended down the Great Slab and returned along the Climbers Traverse.


This route had not been used for many days and there was no trace of the normal path which was buried under lots of wind blown snow. Again we tested for stability and found no evidence of any weak layers and decided to proceed.


I was able to kick steps and create a good path for Annie and Nick to follow along easily behind me.


When we reached the Band all of the snow had gone and we enjoyed an easy walk back down the path to the ODG car park just as it was starting to get dark.

14th Feb, Winter Skills Course, Greenside

Today I was working for Highpoint on a basic winter skills course with a large group from Kendal Hillwalking Club. Snow conditions in the Lakes are still good.


I forgot the camera today so unfortunately we have no pictures. The area around Greenside and Raise holds the snow well during the winter and has some excellent slopes with safe run outs for teaching winter skills.


During the day we found the remants of a recent avalanche activity with a large crown wall and some sizeable pieces of debris still very obvious. This was on the lee slope of the hill and it was evidence to the amount of recent wind blown snow that we have. It was quite rare to find in the Lakes as avalanche activity is normally very low.


We dug some test pits in this area and the snowpack down to ground level was well consolidated and a low risk of further activity. A slight thaw is forecast for tomorrow but with the depth and condition of the snowpack it will be around for a while yet.